The Art and Soul of Baking

by Sur La Table, Cindy Mushet

Price: $40.00
ISBN-13: 978-0-7407-7334-1
ISBN-10: 0-7407-7334-8
Format: Hardcover
Size: 8 1/2 x 10 1/2 in.
Page Count: 464 pages

“It’s hard not to get into the baking mood when flipping through the  Art and Soul of Baking book by Cindy Mushet. This book is packed with valuable baking information from cover to cover and it’s so comprehensive that the recipes and techniques can keep help anyone who loves to bake very, very busy in the kitchen. This gigantic book isn’t just a book of recipes, but it’s like an encyclopedia of baking; full of valuable baking tips and methods. The fun recipes and step-by-step, easy to follow instructions and in-depth discussions of the science of baking is wonderful for baker of all levels.” ––White On Rice Couple http://www.whiteonricecouple.com/recipes/parmesan-herb-popovers/#more-10040

“Mushet is an accomplished pastry chef whose writing style is both informative and engaging. Her baking lessons will help even the greenest of bakers understand not only how to make wonderful desserts but help you understand why they taste so good.” ––Serious  Eats http://www.seriouseats.com/2009/11/cook-the-book-the-art-and-soul-of-baking.html

“With over 400 pages, there are so many delights to discover. There are recipes for every type of baked goods, both savory and sweet. It includes tips from the pros, basic pantry and equipment information and clear directions for more complicated recipes. Every time I open the book, I discover a new recipe I want to try. I have made the pizza crust, pie crust and a few other tasty treats. My favorite so far is the Apricot, Almond, and Chocolate Spiraled Coffee Cake.” ––Chef on Call http://chefoncall.typepad.com/chef_on_call_weblog/2009/07/what-im-reading-the-art-soul-of-baking.html

“Overall this book is amazing. It includes great recipes, great pictures and great information on baking. The book is a great reference for not just recipes but for conversions, cooking equipment and various other tips that are included with almost every recipe. I would recommend this book to everyone that is interested in baking.” ––Savory Reviews http://www.savoryreviews.com/2009/07/08/book-review-the-art-soul-of-baking/

“This is a book for the serious wanna-be baker, the person who has the interest and time to truly understand what baking is about but is not a professional. It also works for those who dip into flour and sugar only once in a while, as the instructional information is presented in manageable segments that coordinate with the recipes.” ––Oregon Live http://www.oregonlive.com/foodday/index.ssf/2009/05/art_and_soul_of_baking.html

“Cindy Mushet is a skilled baking teacher who presents in The Art & Soul of Baking a wonderful collection of baking recipes with learning tips, tricks and details that will improve anyone’s baking skills.” ––Project Foodie http://www.projectfoodie.com/spotlights/cookbooks/cindy-mushet-the-art–soul-of-baking.html

‘The Art and Soul of Baking is a meticulous compilation of sweet and savory treats. With clear directions, and a wealth of recipes, it’s a book you’ll turn to again and again.” ––Project Foodie http://www.projectfoodie.com/spotlights/cookbooks/cindy-mushet—the-art-and-soul-of-baking.html

“Long time pastry chef and culinary instructor, Cindy Mushet, knows everything there is to know about flours.” ––Apartment Therapy, The Kitchn http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/roundup-food-radio/good-food-with-evan-kleinman-its-all-in-the-flour-081142

Most of us grew up loving macaroni and cheese and I am no exception. But now that I am all grown up, I prefer a more sophisticated version than the one my mom made for me. I add a little truffle oil to kick it into another sphere. If you really like truffles and have some fresh ones on hand, chop them up and stir them into the casserole before baking for even more flavor. On the other hand, you could omit the truffle oil and still end up with an amazing mac and cheese.  Serves 4

3 tablespoons white truffle oil
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups half-and-half
¼ pound Swiss cheese, grated
¼ pound sharp cheddar cheese, grated
¼ pound Fontina cheese, grated
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces elbow macaroni

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a small bowl, mix together 1 tablespoon of the truffle oil, the breadcrumbs, and the Parmesan and set aside.
In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk for about 3 minutes, or until the flour blends with the butter. Whisk in the half-and-half, bring to a simmer, and cook for 3 minutes.

Stir in the Swiss, cheddar, Fontina, and mustard. Remove the sauce from the heat once the cheeses have melted. Stir in the remaining truffle oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over medium heat and cook the macaroni for about 7 minutes, until al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the saucepan with the cheese sauce. Stir well.

Pour the macaroni and cheese sauce into a 1-quart buttered baking dish. (At this point you could refrigerate the casserole dish for up to 24 hours.) Top the casserole with the breadcrumb mixture and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the casserole is bubbling hot and the crust is nicely browned and crisp. Serve immediately.

“You can’t miss with this book if you are beginner, and you will also enjoy it even if you’ve shaken and stirred a few drinks in your day.” ––DolceDolce http://www.dolcedolce.com/?cat=211

“You can be part of the cocktail renaissance, function as your own bartender with confidence, and be a sensational host with a few easy lessons from Eben Klemm.  After years of teaching bartending for the B.R. Guest Restaurantswhere globally-inspired drinks range from classic to innovative to unbridled, Klemm realized that rather than try to memorize thousands of formulas, all one needs is a solid understanding  that all drinks, including specialty drinks, are descendants of very basic concepts.  His stated goal is “to tell you to forget about the hundreds of drinks, and focus on the particulars.  Understanding and appreciating these will propel you toward a mastery of any other drink you like.”  Klemm does not overwhelm readers with the drinks his bartenders devise, nor does he make the head spin with a list of thousands of recipes.  Instead he builds on understanding.” ––In Mamas Kitchen http://www.inmamaskitchen.com/Book_Reviews/drinks_wine_books/cocktail_primer.html

“Eben Klemm focuses on the basics in “The Cocktail Primer: All You Need to Know to Make the Perfect Drink“. The master mixologist focuses on about two dozen drinks, grouping them by history, ingredient or technique. After the basics of setting up a home bar, Klemm covers drink families in six chapters. He groups them according to alcohol type (the martini family with its clear white spirits and the manhattans with their dark spirits), by history (simple sours, complex sours) and technique (muddled drinks) and highballs.” ––The Modesto Bee
http://www.modbee.com/life/taste/story/964941.html

“The Cocktail Primer is now my preferred go-to-guide for thinking about, and re-creating great cocktails. It doesn’t seek to be encyclopedic. Klemm imparts the significance of techniques such as pouring, shaking, stirring and muddling. He groups his drink recipes around around a specific spirit. … The Cocktail Primer is an elegantly pared down reference of the essential cocktails you’ll want to create at home. … is a great-looking book. I wanted to sample every cocktail beautifully photographed here. And if you’re looking a great gift for the holidays, I highly recommend this handsome and sleek volume.” ––Stovetop Readings http://stovetopreadings.blogspot.com/2009/12/cocktail-primer-only-source-you-need.html

Is there a difference between a crisp and a crumble? Why do baking times vary? Can active yeast be substituted for instant? Each chapter of The Art and Soul of Baking begins with a primer that answers even the toughest baking questions, explaining essential ingredients and baking methods. Special “Getting Ahead” tips offer pointers on prepping in advance (biscotti logs can be frozen for up to two months, lemon curd can be made three days ahead), and sidebars tell “What the Pros Know” such as how to fix a “broken” ganache, how to make brownies either fudgy or cakey, and how to bake a soufflé in a coffee mug.

More than 275 tested and delectable recipes cover all the bases from tasty pies, tantalizing tarts, melt-in-your-mouth meringues, and delicious cookies to more complicated creations such as flaky pastries, decadent cakes, and lighter-than-air soufflés. Novice bakers and pastry perfectionists alike will be tempted by such treats as Dulce De Leche Éclairs with Milk Chocolate Glaze; Pumpkin Spice Cake with Maple-Cream Cheese Frosting; Gingerbread Shortcakes with Caramelized Apples and Cider Sabayon; and Warm Cranberry Crumble Tart. Of course, there are savory recipes, too, including fragrant Parmesan-Herb Popovers; Potato, Onion, and Gruyère Galette; and a perfect Herbed Chicken Pot Pie. And for a delicious twist on tried-and-true favorites, there are recipes for Bananas Foster Bread Pudding; Citrus-Goat Cheese Cheesecake; Chocolate Velvet Pound Cake; and Peanut Butter Thumbprints with Peanut Caramel.

Additionally, there are 100 sumptuous, full-color photographs by acclaimed photographer Maren Caruso. Along with finished dishes, Maren captures helpful step-by-step techniques, so you see not only the finished Almond Croissants, for example, but also what the butter-filled dough looks like along the way.

Whether you’re new to the kitchen or baking is a familiar old friend, the guidance and recipes in The Art and Soul of Baking will not only make everything you bake look and taste better, but they will also improve the quality of your time spent in the kitchen. As Cindy Mushet says, “Have fun, enjoy the process, and when you’re done, sit back and lick the spatula every once in a while.”

Winners were announced at the 2009 International Association of Culinary Professionals Conference (IACP) International in Denver on April 4.

Art and Soul of Baking won in the cookbook/baking category!

Sur La Table teamed with pastry chef and baking teacher Cindy Mushet to bring you the ultimate guide to baking. Beautiful photographs and more than 250 easy-to-follow recipes lead you into a world of alluring aromas and light, flaky pastries. Illustrated asides take you step by step through important techniques, from carmelizing sugar to working with croissant dough. Plus, you’ll find invaluable information on over 100 ingredients and 50 baker’s tools. A true pleasure for anyone who loves to bake.

The cookbook was also nominated for a 2009 James Beard Foundation Award.

Seattle-based Sur La Table has kept its finger on the pulse of America’s cooks since opening its doors in 1972 at Seattle’s historic Pike Place Market. Since then, chefs and home cooks with a taste for adventure have flocked to the culinary mecca. A destination for iconic chefs like Julia Child, Jacques Pepin, Martha Stewart, and Mario Batali, Sur La Table entices aficionados and curious beginners alike with its amazing selection of cookware and tools. With a successful catalog, Web site, cooking class program, and stores from coast to coast, Sur La Table continues to share its passion for the traditions and tastes of the world with people who love to cook and entertain. For more about Sur La Table, see surlatable.com.

About Cindy Mushet

Cindy Mushet has been a pastry chef and culinary instructor for nearly 20 years, beginning her career at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA.  She has since headed pastry kitchens in restaurants and bakeries from Napa to San Diego and has taught professional training courses at Le Cordon Bleu, the Culinary Institute of America, and the New School of Cooking, among others. She has also taught hundreds of recreational classes across the country.

For five years she wrote and published the highly regarded Baking With the American Harvest, a quarterly baking journal with subscribers nationwide. She also is the author of Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style and was a contributing writer to The Joy of Cooking, The Joy of Cooking Christmas Cookies, and The Baker’s Dozen Cookbook.  Cindy’s recipes and articles have been featured in magazines and newspapers across the country, including Bon Appétit, Fine Cooking, Gourmet, Country Home, and The New York Times.  In addition, her recipes were among the few to be chosen for The Best American Recipe books.

Cindy lives in Los Angeles, where she is a patisserie chef-instructor in Le Cordon Bleu program at the California School of Culinary Arts, and she consults regularly with restaurants and bakeries on menu development and staff training.  Cindy is a regular guest on KCRW’s Good Food radio show. She has been a spokeswoman for the American Butter Institute and a guest chef at food conferences across the country.

“Some books have great practical information and some have great recipes, but The Art and Soul of Baking has both—and it’s beautiful. Learning to be a better baker just became easy, fun, and very delicious.” —Dorie Greenspan, author of Baking From My Home to Yours

“Cindy Mushet has put together an impressive masterpiece on baking. With tips and tricks for everything from making the fanciest dough, to deep, dark chocolate brownies, to fruit-studded muffins that will rise above all others, The Art and Soul of Baking is an outstanding collection of recipes and technical advice that will certainly become one of the most well-used books in any baker’s kitchen, as it has in mine.” —David Lebovitz, author of The Great Book of Chocolate

“From baking basics to advanced tips that take baking to a whole new level, The Art and Soul of Baking covers everything anyone needs to know to be a great baker. It should be on all our bookshelves. It is on mine so I can refer to it for a quick reference from ‘What the Pros Know,’ or to make the Morning Buns to start my day off right or the Peanut Butter Thumbprints with Peanut Caramel for an afternoon pick-me-up.” —Emily Luchetti, author of Classic Stars Desserts: Favorite Recipes

“I’ve been using high-quality baking tools from Sur la Table for years, and now I can add its all-purpose baking book to my collection. The photos alone are worth the price, but Cindy Mushet’s easy-to-follow recipe descriptions and nurturing voice make this a book everyone will want to actually use and not just look at.” —Peter Reinhart, author of Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor

“Cindy Mushet has put together an incredible compilation of sweet and savory recipes, full of all sorts of extra information that put this beautiful book in a league of its own. She is more than a great baker—she’s a superb teacher. The tips she shares, in the most straightforward, precise, yet down-to-earth manner, will make anyone who uses The Art and Soul of Baking, whether a home cook or a professional, a better baker.” —Sherry Yard, executive pastry chef, Wolfgang Puck Worldwide

Gourmet started the Cookbook Club in an attempt to help its readers “cut through the clutter” of the 24,000 cookbooks published each year, according to Editor in-chief Ruth Reichl. The magazine’s editors choose a book each month that offers “imaginative insight and delicious results.”

Reichl said she and her staff established the club in response to the overwhelming number of cookbooks published in the United States. “Tons of cookbooks come pouring in here all the time,” she told Publishers Weekly. “Every time we find one we really love we say, ‘We ought to share this with other people.” Reichl considered adding cookbook reviews to Gourmet but decided a book club would be more inclusive of readers and Gourmet’s online community.

Books chosen for the new club, which launched in June, are marked with a Gourmet plate shaped seal to indicate they are official selections. In addition, at the book club’s home page, gourmet.com/cookbookclub, visitors can find more recipes from the books and videos of the authors demonstrating recipes from their books.

The stakes are simply higher when it comes to baking. A less-than-stellar soup or sauce can be saved at the last minute with an extra pinch of salt or some fresh herbs, but bad baked goods tend to be total disasters—a tough piecrust, a heavy cake, an unrisen yeast dough—and leave you with little to do but dump them into the trash and start again. So when a baking book in which the recipes perform as flawlessly as they do in The Art and Soul of Baking (Andrews McMeel Publishing; 454 pages; $40) comes out, we’re particularly impressed.

Lots of love and effort went into this book from the upscale kitchen store Sur La Table, which is no surprise considering its author is Chez Panisse alum and longtime California baking instructor Cindy Mushet. Her recipes, which strike just the right balance between novelty and simplicity, are each broken down into information-packed sections that are a boon to the home baker: An equipment sidebar tells you everything you’ll need up front; a “getting ahead” section enumerates which steps can be done in advance and mentions what freezes well. Ingredients are listed in traditional cup and tablespoon fashion, as well as in weight measures (for the serious baker); follow-up paragraphs offer recipe variations.

If there’s any weakness here, it’s perhaps too much emphasis on equipment: You don’t truly need a stand mixer for every recipe that calls for it, and when Mushet instructs you, in the blueberry clafoutis recipe, for example, to get out a baking sheet for the sole purpose of holding raw blueberries while you pick through them, she crosses the line into micromanagement. But even this criticism feels like hairsplitting, given such consistently wonderful recipes. A smart one for pumpkin walnut bread can be whipped up quickly using only pantry ingredients. A silky butterscotch pie is a taste of nostalgia that’s not too sweet, and a pizza crust comes together almost effortlessly. It’s the time of year when baking feels right again, and this is just the book to provide inspiration throughout the months ahead.

Selected recipes:

• Bittersweet Chocolate Soufflés with Vanilla Custard Sauce
• Butterscotch Pie
• Graham Cracker Crumb Pie Crust
• Chocolate Chip Cookies
• Pumpkin Walnut Bread

Watch videos of Cindy: http://www.gourmet.com/

Mushet, a talented pastry chef, cooking teacher, and author of the excellent Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style, presents the latest book from the Sur La Table team, following Things Cooks Love. Like Malgieri’s book, it covers both sweet and savory baking, but it includes far more information. Two lengthy introductory chapters cover techniques, equipment, and ingredients, and dozens of sidebars on “Tips for Success” and “What the Pros Know” offer further helpful insider advice. Recipes range from basics such as Quick Puff Pastry and Classic Sugar Cookies to unusual and appealing treats like Malted Milk Chocolate Tart; most of them include make-ahead information, and many also have variations. There are striking color photographs throughout, as well as step-by-step technique photos. Mushet’s style is engaging and never intimidating. Essential.

Cooler weather often is incentive enough to get people baking. But for those who need an extra push, the latest batch of baking cookbooks offers plenty of inspiration to get you in the mood. Here are the highlights:

The Art & Soul of Baking” by Cindy Mushet and Sur la Table

If you buy just one new baking book this season, make it this one. Gorgeously illustrated and exhaustively comprehensive, “The Art & Soul of Baking” covers everything from essential equipment (after all, Sur la Table is a kitchen supplies retailer) and pantry staples to chapters on savory breads, quick breads, tarts, pies, cookies and cakes, to name just a few.

The recipes are exceedingly detailed and include do-ahead tips, notes on equipment needed, advice on storing the finished treats and suggestions for variations. Reading this is a pleasant and enticing baking education.

Mushet’s recipes for Rustic Olive and Thyme Bread and Nine-grain Whole-wheat Harvest Bread were easy to follow and produced delicious, attractive loaves.

Despite the titles appeal to emotional and aesthetic urges, this baking guide determinedly concentrates on the scientific knowledge that underpins everything that an accomplished baker produces. That focus radiates throughout the text of this totally accessible and eminently useful introduction to breads, pastries, pies, cookies, cakes, custards, and souffles. Mushet is determined to explain in detail the whys and wherefores of baking, recommending that even tyros learn to measure flour and similar ingredients by weight rather than volume. She provides comprehensive glossaries of baking equipment and components that intelligently address just about any question a novice might raise. In addition to listing ingredients, quantities, and techniques, each recipe inventories equipment necessary to execute the recipe successfully, making it unnecessary to search the full recipe to find out what pans and appliances to use. Mushet also provides informative sidebars that share professional bakers secrets. Very valuable for cookery reference collections. —Mark Knoblauch

Veteran pastry chef Mushet puts her decades of experience to work in this dense, informative baking guide from Seattle-based gourmet cookware retailer Sur La Table…opening with a comprehensive overview of crucial equipment and a 30 page guide to pantry stocking (butter, flour and sugar get three pages each, chocolate gets five). Covering all aspects of the baking spectrum, Mushet gives yeast-based breads, quick breads, cookies and bars, layered pastries and other specialties their turn, doing admirable work with standards like pizza dough and dinner rolls, as well as trendier riffs like pesto rolls and rustic olive and thyme bread that give cooks room to stretch in each category. Mushets invaluable lessons in ensuring oven accuracy, incorporating butter into dough for layered pastries (with step-by-step photos) and the causes of falling soufflés will get novices up to speed, and experts ready to tackle Mushets compelling cheesecake batter-in-a-food-processor technique will find her inventive hors doeuvre Stilton Cheesecake with Port-Braised Pears a big hit at the next cocktail party. Those already comfortable with baking will get the most out of the books 250 recipes, but there are plenty of dishes well within the reach of those new to Crème Brulee and lemon bar construction, making this a great volume to learn and grow with. (Sept.)

The Art & Soul of Baking by pastry genius Cindy Mushet is October’s Cookbook Club selection over at Gourmet.com. In conjunction with the book, they also offer up a short video on how to make individual bittersweet chocolate souffles. The clip is chock full of baking tips and very, very precise instructions.

In less than 10 minutes you will learn:

• when to whisk in the flour in a béchamel sauce; indeed, you will learn exactly how to make the entire béchamel sauce
• precisely what a soft peak looks like as compared with a stiff peak (hint: it has nothing to do with the peak)
• what it means to rain (rein?) in the sugar
• why you should completely coat the inside of the souffle dish with butter
• how to fold in (the perfectly peaked) egg whites

I’m a former pastry chef (long ago and far away) and still I learned a lot from this video.

If that’s not enough for you, you can continue with another short clip with several great tips like how to soften brown sugar, test your baking powder and soda and keep your scones from burning on the bottom.

Baking Bites, October 13, 2008, by Nicole

The Art and Soul of Baking is a new book from Sur La Table’s relatively young cookbook line. Things Cooks Love was published earlier this year and another book, Knives Cooks Love, is due out at the end of this month. The store is known for its top quality kitchenware, so it’s no surprise to see them putting it to good use in a book like this one.

The Art and Soul of Baking a huge compendium of all things baked. The book has nearly 300 recipes in its 464 pages, as well as tons of information about kitchen equipment and ingredients. The introduction to the book is broken up into two parts and is the main reference section. The Baker’s Kitchen chapter is primarily dedicated to describing the use and purpose of various pieces of baking-related kitchen equipment, and also gives weight and volume conversion tables. The Baker’s Pantry chapter is dedicated to ingredients, describing how things are made, what the flavors are like and how to use them.

The recipes are broken down into chapters by type, and are all well-written. At the beginning of each chapter there is a little primer on how to be as successful as possible with your cakes, breads, souffles, etc. The instructions are descriptive and there are plenty of tips given in the sidebars to help make the process as easy as possible. The book also makes note of possible variations on each recipe. There are plenty of full-page photographs in the book, and while they are excellent shots, not every recipe is covered. Overall, it’s a nice book that will give the reader plenty of recipe options and some great reference material, the sheer size of the book is a little intimidating, even though the clear writing and friendly tone will keep a reader engaged once he or she starts to flip through the pages. The book’s author, Cindy Mushet, has a blog set up that is a great way to get a preview of the book.

An Interview with Cindy Mushet on the “Art & Soul of Baking”

Cindy Mushet’s definitive book, the Art & Soul of Baking.

If you don’t know the name Cindy Mushet, let me introduce you. She’s one of those people in the background who makes amazing things happen. Her contributions may not always have her name blazed on them, but her impact is evidenced by a rich history in the culinary world. Cindy was a contributor to the Joy of Cooking, has taught throughout the United States for Sur La Table and is currently an instructor at Le Cordon Bleu. Her recipes have appeared in Bon Appétit, Fine Cooking, the New York Times, and the National Culinary Review.

During her 24 hour stay in Seattle, I had the opportunity to meet with Cindy and it was kismet from the beginning. We chatted over lunch and then strolled over to my favorite bakery for a little nosh. She was just days into her 3 week tour, and despite having already done an early morning TV spot, a pod cast interview and a newspaper interview, by the time we talked she was still a fireball of energy.

A long history of teaching permeates Cindy’s culinary style. She understands how her students feel, going through the effort to bake something, only to fail with a dessert you can’t serve. “That’s when people go to Costco and pick up something cheap.” But there are so many things wrong with cheap: desserts are packed with preservatives to extend the shelf life and the ingredients stray far from anything that might be good for you…or flavorful.

Her mission became: Teach a Man to Bake, Don’t Give Him a Cake.

Warm and engaging, Cindy’s got an analytical mind that probes with a laser focus until she lands on the answer. While there are some excellent baking books, many of them lack direction in the most basic steps. One of the most frustrating steps both she and her students struggled with was the familiar: cream butter until light & fluffy. “What does that mean?” In her frustration she surmised, “Butter never looks fluffy…or light.” Eventually she learned “light” meant light in color, not texture. And “fluffy” spoke to the incorporation of air into the butter. It’s that attention to the intention that makes her recipes a step above.

To perfect her baking, she applied a scientific approach — baking cakes repeatedly, changing the ratios at each attempt. Then, she’d study the results and determine what yielded the best outcome.

This scientific approach came from an early influence by the San Francisco’s Baker’s Dozen group. At the time, she was living in Berkley and there were a number of bakers in the area. They’d gather and talk about issues they were having, “I’m having a problem with this dough…do you know anything about that?”

Eventually, the group gelled into something more formal. They’d meet once a quarter and learn from each other. Tackling Angel Food cake, for instance, each person brought a finished cake and the recipe. “You wouldn’t believe the variety! They all fell under the category of Angle Food cakes, but they were so different.” Getting to the heart of the differences, the group sampled each cake, decided which characteristics were ideal, and then compared recipes. Side by side, they’d see the ingredients were the same. “Okay, now what did you do differently?” They’d analyze the techniques that arrived at an excellent finished product. Not surprising, this process deeply influenced Cindy’s approach to baking.

When she was first asked to write a book on baking, Cindy thought, “What could I say about baking that hasn’t already been said?” After further reflection…and before she’d given a final answer, she tapped into her own collection of over 200 baking books. Laying multiple books out on the living room floor, she poured over them with an analytic approach —what’s here? What’s missing? And most importantly, what did her Sur La Table students struggle with when using the recipes?

Because she had years of contact with students who are often unsure, she could see firsthand where the issues where, and modified her own recipes accordingly.

Then Cindy turned to the bible of cooking science, Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. While the book is a treasure trove of information, admittedly, it’s a very dry read.

So, Cindy asked herself, “How can I combine both solid recipes and provide enough information to help people understand the science behind what’s going on?”

She was determined to prove success in baking is built on a solid foundation…not a fluke. Tapping into an analytical approach, combined with years of teaching, the result is her latest book, the Art and Soul of Baking.

It hits the mark on every level.

In fact, she gives a lot of credit to Sur La Table, who was the impetus behind the project. They were very “hands off” in the creation of this book. None of the directions were cropped or modified to save space. And they gave her the time necessary to create a book of substance. Two years to write it, one year for editing means this book is much more than just a collection of recipes.

Baker’s Dozen alum, Alice Medrich, wrote the forward and she highlights two key points: the chart for Baking Pan Volumes (What’s the difference between a 9 x 1″ Pyrex pie pan and a 9 x 1 1/2″ Emily Henry fluted pie pan? It’s here.) And a handy chart that converts measuring cups and spoons into exact weights. Alice notes, “The book’s two essential double-page charts should be photocopied and hung inside a cupboard door for easy reference.” Taking a cue from Alice, mine are laminated and stuck to the side of the refrigerator…and I refer to them, regularly.

The Art & Soul of Baking is packed with relevant information designed to bring success into the kitchen. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned baker, I found her discussion on the Eight Main Ingredients invaluable. And the photos for bread dough detailing the different stages: underrisen, perfectly risen, and overrisen doughs provides the visual cues necessary when conquering the land of yeast. Tips in the margins, “What the Pros Know” layers the knowledge base, providing multiple “ah-ha!” moments.

I consider myself a fairly accomplished baker and I’ve got dozens of books on the subject. Frankly, this is the book I have been looking for. Cindy is a perfect guide — explaining not just how, but why. Surely I’d be a better baker today if I’d had this book sooner.

The good news is, there’s still plenty for me to learn. And with Cindy as my guide, next up…conquering my fear of yeast!

Serves 10 to 12

This soft, moist, towering cloud of a dessert lies somewhere between a cake and a trifle, its lemon syrup–soaked cake layers alternating with lemon mascarpone cream. Meyer lemons are especially fragrant, but this cake is outstanding even with supermarket Eureka lemons. There are a few steps here, but almost everything can be done ahead, which makes putting it together pretty easy.

Ingredients

Sponge Cakes

6 large eggs, separated
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) plus
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) sugar
1 3/4 cups (6 ounces) sifted cake flour

Lemon Syrup
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
1/2 cup (4 fl ounces) water
1/4 cup (2 ounces) freshly squeezed
lemon juice

Mascarpone Filling
2 1/2 cups (20 ounces) heavy whipping cream
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) sugar
1 pound mascarpone
1 cup lemon curd, plus 1 1/2 cups for layering and garnish

Equipment

Two Ungreased 9 by 1 3/4-inch Round Cake Pans Lined with Parchment Paper, Pastry Brush, Small Offset Spatula, Icing Spatula, Pastry Bag Fitted with a 1/2-inch Star Tip

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F. Position oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven.

2 Make the sponge cakes: Place the egg yolks and 7 tablespoons of the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on high speed until the mixture is thick and very light in color, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside while you whip the egg whites.

3 In a clean bowl with a clean whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed to soft peaks. With the mixer running, gradually add the remaining 7 tablespoons of sugar and continue beating until the egg whites hold firm peaks. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the beaten yolks, then sift half of the flour over the top and gently fold it in. Repeat. Fold in the last of the egg whites until no streaks of white remain.

4 Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and bake for 18 to 22 minutes, until the top is golden, firm to the touch, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out free of crumbs. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely.

5 Make the lemon syrup: Place the sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has completely dissolved and the liquid is clear. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Stir in the lemon juice.

6 Make the mascarpone filling: Place the cream and sugar in a bowl and whip to soft peaks. Refrigerate. Place the mascarpone and one cup of the lemon curd in a bowl and stir until blended—it should be the consistency of pudding. Gently fold in the whipped cream until the mixture is homogenous and thick. If the mixture becomes overworked, it will look grainy or separated. If this happens, stir in several tablespoons of cream with a rubber spatula—stir just until the mixture has smoothed out again.

Makes 24 croissants Layer upon layer of butter and dough produce the ultimate French breakfast treat. Be sure to read “A Primer on Laminated Doughs” for tips that will help you turn out beautiful croissants.

Ingredients
Dough portion (détrempe)
1/2 cup (4 ounces) whole milk, warmed to 110° to 115°F
1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) sugar
4 teaspoons active dry yeast, or 3 teaspoons instant yeast
4 cups (20 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and rolling
2 teaspoons (1/2 ounce) salt
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup (8 ounces) cold milk

Butter block (beurrage)
3 3/4 sticks (14 ounces) cold, unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unbleached all-purpose flour

Egg wash
1 large egg
1 tablespoon whole milk or cream

Equipment
Stand Mixer with Dough Hook and Paddle Attachments, Small Bowl, Whisk, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Bowl Scraper, Board Scraper, Chef’s Knife or Paring Knife, Rolling Pin, Ruler, Pizza Cutter (optional), Pastry Brush, Two Baking Sheets Lined with Parchment Paper or Silicone Mats

1 Make the dough portion (détrempe): Pour the warm milk into a small bowl and whisk in 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Whisk in the yeast and set aside for 10 minutes, or until the yeast is activated and the mixture is bubbling.

2 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, salt, and cold butter pieces.

Blend on medium speed until the butter is cut into tiny pieces. Add the yeast mixture and the cold milk. Switch to the dough hook and mix on lowest speed for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and has formed a very rough mass. Dust a work surface lightly with flour and turn the dough out onto it. Knead the dough 3 to 5 times, to finish bringing it together. The dough will not be smooth or elastic; it will become fully kneaded and smooth during the rolling and turning process ahead. Don’t overwork the dough now, or you’ll have trouble rolling it later. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes.

3 Make the butter block: Cut the butter into 1/2-inch pieces, toss with the flour, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. In the cleaned stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the floured butter on medium speed, scraping down the bowl once or twice with a bowl scraper, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the butter and flour form a smooth mass. You are not trying to beat air into the mixture, just make it pliable and smooth while keeping it cold. Scrape the butter onto a piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap, wrap it up, and refrigerate while you roll out the dough.

4 Lightly dust the work surface with flour. Set the dough in the center and dust the top with flour. Roll the dough into a 15 by 12-inch rectangle with a short side parallel to the edge of your work surface. Gently pull or stretch the dough to form straight edges and sharp corners. Brush any flour from the surface. Visually divide the dough lengthwise into 3 equal, 5-inch-wide sections (you can lightly mark the dough with a ruler or the back of a knife if you wish). Spread the cold but pliable butter evenly over the top two sections of dough, leaving the bottom third empty and leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edges of the buttered sections (see page 000). This is best done with your fingers, since the butter isn’t quite warm enough to spread easily with a spatula.

5 Use a letter fold to encase the butter: Fold the empty bottom third up over the center third of the dough. Then fold the top third down over the center. Pinch together the seams along the bottom and sides of the dough. Roll your rolling pin across the top of the dough briefly and gently 3 or 4 times to help seal the seams. This completes both the incorporation of the butter and your first turn of the dough. If the butter has become warm and squishy, wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour before continuing with the second turn. If you have worked quickly and the butter is still cold yet pliable, continue with the next turn.

6 Position the dough with the short side parallel to your work surface and the long fold on your left (as though you were going to open the dough like a book). Dust the dough with flour and roll it into a 20 by 12-inch rectangle. Brush any flour from the surface of the dough. Fold the dough using the book-fold method: Fold the two short edges into the center of the dough, leaving a 1/4-inch crevice between them. Line up the edges precisely and square the corners as you fold. Now fold one side over the other, as though you were closing a book. Roll your pin across the top of the dough briefly and gently 3 or 4 times to seal the seams. This completes your second turn. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate it for 1 hour.

7 Remove the dough from the refrigerator, dust it with flour, and again roll it into a 20 by 12-inch rectangle. Brush any flour from the surface of the dough. Fold the dough using the letter-fold method: Visually divide the dough lengthwise into 3 equal, 5-inch-wide sections (you can lightly mark the dough with a ruler or the back of a knife if you wish). Fold the empty bottom third up over the center of the dough, and then fold the top third down over the center, making sure to square the corners and fold as neatly and precisely as possible. Pinch together the seams along the bottom and sides of the dough. Roll your rolling pin across the top of the dough again briefly to help seal the seams. This completes your third turn. The croissant dough is finished. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours before cutting, shaping, and baking the dough.

8 Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a 26 by 14 by 1/4-inch-thick rectangle. Cut the dough rectangle in half lengthwise to form two pieces that each measure 26 by 7 inches. On each half, use a ruler and paring knife or pizza cutter to make nicks along the top edge of the dough every 4 inches. Along the bottom edge, measure 2 inches in from the left side and make a nick; then add a nick every 4 inches.

9 Cut the dough into triangles: Line up your ruler with the top left corner and the first bottom nick (2 inches in from the left side of the dough). Cut along this line. This first triangle will make a smaller croissant when you shape the croissants. Then line up the ruler with the second nick on the top edge and the first bottom nick, and cut along that line, forming a tall, skinny triangle. Continue lining up the nicks and cutting until the whole sheet has been cut into triangles. Mark and cut the second half of dough in the same way.

10 Line up all the triangles so that their bottom (4-inch) sides are parallel with the edge of your work surface. Make a 1-inch vertical slit in the center of the bottom edge of each triangle. To shape, grasp a triangle and, with the wide end in one hand and the point in the other, very gently stretch the dough until it is a couple inches longer. Set it back on the table. Pull the slit in the bottom apart slightly and roll the corners upward and outward, widening the slit. Now roll the entire triangle toward the tip, pulling gently on the tip to stretch the dough slightly. Tuck the tip under the roll (so it doesn’t pull out during baking) and place the roll on one of the prepared baking sheets. Curve the ends in toward each other to form a crescent shape. Continue stretching and rolling the dough triangles until you have shaped all the croissants and placed them on the baking sheets, allowing 2 inches between each croissant.

11 Make the egg wash: Combine the egg and the milk in a small bowl and whisk to blend well. Brush each croissant evenly with the egg wash. Allow the croissants to rise in a cool room-temperature spot until they are nearly doubled in size and look like they have taken a deep breath, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the warmth of the room. If you squeeze one gently, it should feel soft and marshmallow-like. Don’t try to rush the rise by warming the croissants—you don’t want the butter to melt.

12 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400° F. Chill the croissants in the freezer for 10 minutes or in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. This will firm the butter, creating a flakier texture. Brush the croissants once more with the egg wash. Bake one sheet pan at a time, rotating it halfway through, for 17 to 22 minutes, or until the croissants are a deep golden brown. Transfer croissants to a rack to cool. until the croissants are a deep golden brown. Transfer croissants to a rack to cool.

What the Pros Know
Once the dough is made and shaped, pay attention to the proofing process. During this last rise, the many layers of butter in the dough should remain cool. If the room is too warm, the butter will melt. Instead of forming flaky layers in the oven, the butter will leak out of the dough, covering the baking sheet in a pool of liquid butter and “frying” the bottoms of the croissants in the process. To prevent this, pick a cool room temperature spot for proofing the croissants, preferably 65° to 70°F. Once they have risen, chill the croissants in the freezer for 10 minutes or in the refrigerator for 15 minutes just prior to baking. This will firm the butter, ensuring beautifully flaky croissants.

Almond Croissants

Makes 24

Ingredients
Unbleached all-purpose flour for rolling
1 cup (3 ounces) raw sliced almonds (natural or blanched)
1 recipe Croissants, prepared through step 9
1 recipe Almond Filling (see this page)

Equipment
Two Baking Sheets Lined with Parchment Paper, or Two Silicone Mats

1 Begin Step 10 of Croissants recipe, but don’t slit the dough triangles as described in the second sentence. Place a tablespoon of almond filling 1/2 inch from the bottom of the triangle. Use your finger or the spoon to gently smear the filling in a small triangle, keeping it centered on the dough and away from the edges.

2 Roll the dough as described in Step 10, rolling the bottom of the stretched triangle (without slit) toward the tip. Brush with egg wash and proof as in Step 11. After brushing with egg wash for the second time as in Step 12, sprinkle the sliced almonds over the top of each croissant. Bake as directed.

Almond Filling

Makes about 1 1/2 cups This filling is divine in Danish and in croissants, and takes a mere 5 minutes to make in the food processor.

Ingredients
4 ounces almond paste
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick; 4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg
Finely grated zest of 1/2 a lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour

Equipment
Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade or Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment, Silicone or Rubber Spatula

1 Break or cut the almond paste into 10 to 12 pieces and put them in the bowl of a food processor. Add the sugar and process until the almond paste is cut into tiny pieces, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the butter and process until well blended, another 20 to 30 seconds. Scrape down the bowl.

2 Add the egg, lemon zest, and vanilla extract and process for about 10 seconds. Add the flour and process for 10 seconds. Scrape down the bowl and make sure everything is evenly mixed. Transfer to an airtight container until needed.

Roll the dough into a 15 by 12-inch rectangle. Visually divide the dough into 3 equal, 5-inch-wide sections and spread the cold pliable butter over the top two sections of dough, leaving the bottom third empty and leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edges of the buttered portion.

Begin a letter fold by folding the empty bottom third of the dough up over the center third of the dough.

Fold the top third of the dough over the center and pinch the seams to finish the letter fold. Refrigerate the dough for 1 hour before rolling it out for the second turn.

For the second turn, use the book-fold method. Roll the dough into a 20 by 12-inch rectangle. Fold the two short edges toward the center of the dough, leaving a 1/4-inch crevice between them. Make sure all the edges are lined up precisely. Then, fold one side of the dough over the other, as though you were closing a book.

Serves 8 to 10

Here is a savory version of the free-form fruit tart known in France as a galette. If Gruyère is unavailable, substitute Italian fontina or any good melting cheese. Be sure to use red or fingerling potatoes, as they hold their shape much better than baking potatoes, like russet, whose interiors turn to mush when cooked. Though rustic and casual, it is an instant party food when dressed up with crème fraîche and golden caviar.

Ingredients
1 recipe Flaky Pie or Tart Dough (page 157)

Filling
1 large onion (12 ounces), thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
5 grinds black pepper
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary
4 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated
1 pound red potatoes

To Finish
1 tablespoon olive oil
Pinch kosher salt
3 grinds black pepper
1 egg

For Serving (optional)
Crème fraiche
Golden caviar

Equipment
Chef’s Knife, Sauté Pan, Small Bowl, Pastry Brush, Paring Knife or Skewer, Metal Spatula, Cake Lifter or Two Spatulas or the Bottom of a Tart Pan

1 Advance Preparation: Roll the prepared dough into a 13-inch round, transfer to a parchment- or silicone-lined baking sheet, and chill for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400°F and position an oven rack in the lower third.

2 Make the filling: Heat the sauté pan over a medium-high flame. Add the olive oil and when it is hot, add the onion slices to the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and lightly colored, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the salt, pepper, and chopped thyme or rosemary and blend well. Scrape onto a plate and set aside to cool. Wash the potatoes and pat dry, but don’t peel them. Cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

3 Assemble the galette: Mix together the cooled onion mixture, grated cheese, and potato slices. Spread the mixture over the prepared pie dough, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border around the edges. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Fold just the border of the dough up around the filling, pleating it to make a pretty, circular enclosure, leaving the center open. In a small bowl, beat the egg with a fork. Lightly brush the pleated dough with the egg to give it shine and help it brown in the oven.

4 Bake the galette for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and the potatoes are soft when tested with a paring knife or skewer. Check the bottom of the galette for doneness by lifting slightly with a metal spatula. Transfer to a rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes.

5 Transfer the galette to a serving plate with a cake lifter or two spatulas, or the bottom of a tart pan slipped underneath to keep it from breaking as you move it. Slice and serve warm.

by Sur La Table, Cindy Mushet

Price: $40.00
ISBN-13: 978-0-7407-7334-1
ISBN-10: 0-7407-7334-8
Format: Hardcover
Size: 8 1/2 x 10 1/2 in.
Page Count: 464 pages