Plum Gorgeous

Recipes and Memories from the Orchard

by Romney Steele

Price: $25.00
ISBN-13: 9781449402402
ISBN-10: 1449402402
Format: Hardcover
Size: 7 3/8 X 8 1/4 in.
Page Count: 192 pages

My Nepenthe

Bohemian Tales of Food, Family, and Big Sur

by Romney Steele

Price: $35.00
ISBN-13: 978-0-7407-7914-5
ISBN-10: 0-7407-7914-1
Format: Hardcover
Size: 7 3/8 X 9 5/8 in.
Page Count: 352 pages

“In her new book, Plum Gorgeous, a collection of 62 fruit-centric recipes, Oakland-based writer Romney Steele expresses a sentimental longing for days spent living with her children in an orchard at Big Sur. The text shows both a child’s enjoyment of and an adult’s passion for a place, a lifestyle, and a way of eating. Steele is often cryptic about those memories, but she’s transparent with the recipes, and wildly inspiring as she guides the reader through the fruits of each season and how to savor them in simple recipes for appetizers, salads, main dishes, condiments, sauces, and of course, desserts. In Sara Remington’s glowing photographs and added graphics, there is so much textural emphasis that we can almost imagine picking up the fork for a taste of what’s on the plate or plucking a fruit and popping it into our mouths. The book is stunningly designed to resemble a scrapbook of memories, but it might just as easily be an artist’s (or cook’s) idea journal filled with intentions to return to the orchard again and again to rediscover the treasures each season has to offer.” ––Edible East Bay http://bit.ly/ubpfLT

“This is peak time for melons, late-season figs and wild greens. Tomatoes are bursting off the vine, and fresh herbs are abundant. So [Romney] Steele combines those vibrant purples, greens and reds in a composed September Salad, adding paper-thin slices of prosciutto and drizzles of olive oil and oloroso sherry. Steele, who has a visual arts background, brings an artist’s eye to her newest book, “Plum Gorgeous“. Many of her edible masterpieces — and their recipes — were composed on the plate, where colorful fruits, salads and even cured meats come together. That riot of colors and textures can evoke memories and places, as well as flavors. Steele mixes nectarines, for example, with thinly sliced, cured ham — such as the Jambon Royale made by Niman Ranch — watercress and Marcona almonds for an autumnal salad she calls “my ode to Spain.” Serve it in the garden for a late-afternoon lunch, she says, with “gypsy music playing in the background.”" ––Mercury News http://bit.ly/pcOwjq

“If a cookbook can be romantic, this one surely is. “Plum Gorgeous” is the essence of simplicity and yet one of the most sophisticated books to cross our desks this year. The 60 sweet and savory recipes are divided among into four chapters: Citrus, Berries, Stone Fruit and Fall Fruit.” ––Oregon Live http://bit.ly/pKLSo0

“Plum Gorgeous will make you want to find the best fruits of the season and include them with every meal of the day.” ––Seattle Weekly http://bit.ly/ncKYFg

“With its deep red cover graced with a juicy halved plum, Romney Steele’s Plum Gorgeous appears to be a valentine to fruit. It’s a beautiful love letter to stone fruit at the prime of ripeness, complete with stories from the orchard, little poems and proverbs singing their praises, and of course, lavishly illustrated and elegant seasonal fruit recipes for both sweet and savory dishes.” ––Serious Eats http://bit.ly/q8ygl2

“Filled with full-page colour photographs and poetic asides, Plum Gorgeous is a delight for the senses. Romney Steel offers up 60 recipes, both savoury and sweet, that raise orchard fruits to a whole new level.” ––Living in the Kitchen with Puppies http://bit.ly/pFw6g8

“In sixty mouth-watering recipes, Steele captures the essence of cooking from the orchard and celebrates what she calls the “romance of fruit.” … This collection is divided into four main parts: Oranges of Memory; Still Life with Berries; Plum Gorgeous; and Beauty & Windfall. The recipes include such crowd pleasers as Pink Grapefruit Cassis Granita, a delicious alternative to sorbet, Honey-Lime Peaches with Crème Fraiche Clouds, a tasty French Apple Tart, and Kate’s Orange Marmalade. Most of the recipes in this marvelous collection are fairly easy to prepare.” ––Tucson Citizen http://bit.ly/qpSB7e

“Written by the granddaughter of Bill and Lolly Fassett, creators of Nepenthe Restaurant in Big Sur, “Plum Gorgeous” is a love letter to California’s delicious fruit, with artful type, charming photographs, whimsical drawings and lots of fun recipes.” ––Press Democrat http://bit.ly/nf2nGY

In Plum Gorgeous, Romney recognizes the gorgeousness that food—and particularly fruit—can be all on its own. Plum Gorgeous celebrates seasonal fruit, encouraging cooks to use different recipes depending on their local fruit selection. Each of the 60 seasonally inspired, sweet and savory recipes is fruit-filled and fantastically flavorful.

Luscious recipes such as Raspberry Rhubarb Rose Petal Jam, Blueberry Lemon Thyme Risotto, Herb-roasted Salmon with Wild Huckleberry Sauce, and Plum Soup with Basil Ice Cream are intertwined with Sara Remington’s breathtaking photographs, flooding the pages of Plum Gorgeous with stunning color.

This visual and flavorful work of art is inspired by Romney’s time living in orchards, working in professional kitchens, and by her favorite books, destinations, and chefs. With each turn of the page, Plum Gorgeous celebrates the sensuous and enchanting nature of fruit, as well as the pleasures and joys of the table.

A comforting grilled ham and cheese sandwich turns divine with a figgy relish and other quality ingredients. You can interpret this sandwich any way you like, but I am fond of it with thin slices of prosciutto and buttery Toma cheese, a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from the Aosta region of Italy. Sprinkle with a dusting of Parmesan just before serving. The relish can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator, and makes more than you will need. Reserve any extra to enjoy with cheese and wine in the afternoon. It will keep for several months in the refrigerator.

Makes 2 sandwiches, serving 2 to 4

2 artisanal rolls, or 4 slices ciabatta bread
Sweet butter
Toma cheese, sliced or grated
Several thin slices prosciutto
Basil leaves
Arugula
Fig Relish (recipe follows)
Olive oil or butter
Grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Fig Relish

Makes about 1 cup
1 basket Kadota or Mission figs (about ½ pound), stemmed and peeled
½ cup sugar
½ cup apple cider vinegar or champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon mustard seed
Pinch salt
About 1 teaspoon dry mustard (optional)

Slice the rolls lengthwise and spread a little sweet butter on the bottom halves. Layer each with some cheese, a few slices of prosciutto, and a couple basil leaves along with a tussle of arugula. Spread a generous amount of fig relish on the top half of each roll, then place on top of the layered half. Gently press down to adhere.

Heat a cast-iron pan over medium-low heat and lightly brush with olive oil or a little butter. Add one or two sandwiches at a time and cook until lightly browned on one side. Brush the tops with a little more oil and turn over. Place a pot lid or heavy plate on top and gently press down as they cook. Cook until the cheese is melted and the roll is nicely browned and crusty. To serve, slice each sandwich in half on the diagonal and dust with a small amount of Parmesan cheese.

Coarsely chop the figs and place in a small pot with the sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, salt, and ¼ cup water. Bring to a boil over medium heat and simmer, stirring on occasion, for 20 minutes, until it resembles a loose jam. Stir in the dry mustard to taste, if using. Transfer to a glass bowl or jar. Refrigerate once cool.

Sweet black cherries baked in custard is a specialty of the Limousin region of France; it’s a popular no-fuss dessert served warm or cold, dusted with a little sugar. Traditionally the cherries are left whole so the pits imbue a little of their almond flavor. This is how I’ve always done it too, though you can surely pit them (and my daughter thinks I should); in fact most people do. Try making the clafoutis with other stone fruit like plums and peaches or, in the fall, fresh figs or dried prunes soaked first in brandy for a twist.

Serves 6 to 8

4 cups sweet cherries
½ cup turbinado or Demerara sugar
1 to 2 tablespoons kirsch
6 eggs
1 cup whole milk
2/3 cup crème fraîche
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons flour
Pinch salt
1/3 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted
Confectioners’ sugar (optional)

Wash and stem the cherries and pit if you prefer; pat dry. In a bowl, toss the cherries with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the kirsch, more or less as you like to taste. Set aside at room temperature for at least 20 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Generously butter a 9-inch cast-iron skillet or earthenware dish. Scatter the cherries in the bottom of the dish.

Combine the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar, the eggs, milk, crème fraîche, vanilla, flour, and salt in a blender. Blend to combine thoroughly; strain if necessary to remove any lumps of flour, then whisk back in by hand.

Pour the custard over the cherries. Bake the clafoutis for 35 to 40 minutes, until puffy and golden and just set in the middle. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds and dust with confectioners’ sugar, if you like, before serving.

“There are many famous restaurants in California but Nepenthe which is perched on the majestic cliffs of Big Sur is somehow even more special. … Then as now, it was a favorite gathering place for writers, travelers, actors, dancers, and people who enjoyed both good company and good food. Romney Steele’s new cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes. It is more like a scrapbook which is filled with old family photographs, memories, and fragments of the legendary restaurant’s past. Since Romney grew up in the restaurant, her collection is as personal as a love letter and in some ways that’s exactly what it is, a love letter to both a place and time.” ––Tucson Citizen http://bit.ly/93lV6K

“Nepenthe is a gorgeous place, as shown in current and archive photos in the celebratory memoir-cookbook My Nepenthe: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family and Big Sur” by Romney Steel. She’s the [restaurant founders, Bill and Lolly] Fassetts’ granddaughter, who grew up on the property and spent plenty of time in the kitchen. Eventually, she opened and ran Cafe Kevah at Nepenthe as a companion to the main restaurant.” ––Sacramento Bee http://www.sacbee.com/2010/03/22/2623602/between-the-lines-pasta-book-is.html

“[Romney Steele's] recently published My Nepenthe, is a marvelous cookbook-cum-memoir providing not just splendid recipes – I speak with authority, having spent most of the recent holidays cooking from it – but also a catalogue of insight into the character of Big Sur and the free-spirited families that continue to provide this extraordinary part of California with such idiosyncrasy.” ––The Star http://www.thestar.com/travel/northamerica/article/770886–california-dreaming

“A few months back the armchair traveler in me found a new place to add to my “Must Visit” list. That place was Big Sur, California. I recently had a chance to re-visit that idyllic place with the book “My Nepenthe” by writer and food stylist Romney Steele.  My Nepenthe is a wonderful combination of memoir and cookbook.  It tells the story of Romney’s grandparents, Billy and Lolly Fassett, who founded Nepenthe Restaurant and Cafe Kevah in Big Sur, CA.  Nepenthe Restaurant became a favorite place to visit and temporary home to many writers, artists, and musicians throughout the 1950’s and 60’s.  But, more importantly, My Nepenthe talks about Romney’s experiences growing up there and how so much of who she is today is because of her time spent in Big Sur.  ” ––Project Foodie http://www.projectfoodie.com/spotlights/cookbooks/going-back-to-big-sur.html

“[My Nepenthe is] filled with gathered families, recipes and beautiful photography. It makes me the bohemian that I want to be. ” ––Life Signatures http://lifesignatures.org/wordpress/2010/01/my-nepenthe-love/

My Nepenthe is stunning, unique, and absolutely captivating.  Not just the lovely writing about Nani’s grandparents and large, extended family, not just the rich history of this unusual locale. The physical pages of this book leap to life with the most glorious splashes of color and texture.  In addition to being a writer and cook, Nani is a food stylist, and her aesthetic completely drew me in.  The photographs capture the bohemian lifestyle, with beatific looking women with long hair and flowing skirts; architectural details like heavy-hinged wooden doors and rustic cobblestone walls; and children playing together, then and now.  It’s a portrait of a real family over time, in a place of glorious natural beauty.” ––5 Second Rule http://5secondrule.typepad.com/my_weblog/2010/01/minestrone-recipe-from-my-nepenthe.html

“”My Nepenthe” is not here to teach you how to cook. Instead, it exists as a memoir to transport the reader to the Big Sur through the Fassett family recipes. “Ultimately, this book is a story about food, family, and the culture of place, and how it all unfolds around the table and why that matters,” author Romney Steele writes. … If you enjoy “la vie boheme,” the refuge of Nepenthe awaits. ” –SlashFood http://www.slashfood.com/2010/01/06/my-nepenthe-cookbook-spotlight/

“To me the ultimate test for any book is to be immediately swept away when you open it, being pulled into whatever world that book portrays and to feel like you are actually a part of it. I had the pleasure of taking such a journey with the enchanting My Nepenthe: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family and Big Sur written by Romney Steele” which was recently sent to me by the publisher to review. This is one of those cookbooks that from the start begs to be picked up, savored and soaked in, thick and gorgeous with its bright jewel-toned colors and amazing photos. With most cookbooks I review I do a quick read through of some of the key chapters, scanning the rest and going immediately to the recipes, with “My Nepenthe” I found myself keeping it on my nightstand and reading it page by page, chapter by chapter, each night until I finished it. It is not just a collection of recipes, although there are plenty of them, it is really the story of a magical place, Nepenthe–a restaurant and gathering spot on the cliffs of Big Sur in California” ––Kahakai Kitchen http://kahakaikitchen.blogspot.com/2009/12/cookbook-review-my-nepenthe-bohemian.html

“Romney Steele, is a food writer, cook and food stylist. She is also the granddaughter of Lolly and Bill Fassett. She witnessed the flowering of Nepenthe’s success first-hand, growing up there. She later launched Café Kevah, on Nepenthe’s grounds. She has created MY NEPENTHE: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family, and Big Sur. Part memoir, part cookbook, this visually appealing book is loaded with vintage black and white photos and many color shots that evokes the special history of the California coast and the many events hosted by an extraordinary couple who created a popular destination restaurant that has endured for more than six decades. … MY NEPENTHE makes me want to get to Big Sur as soon as possible, but in the meantime, this lovely book makes me almost feel like I’ve been there before.” ––Stovetop Readings http://stovetopreadings.blogspot.com/2009/12/food-family-stunning-big-sur-views.html

Romney Steele, is a food writer, cook and food stylist. She is also the granddaughter of Lolly and Bill Fassett. She witnessed the flowering of Nepenthe’s success first-hand, growing up there. She later launched Café Kevah, on Nepenthe’s grounds. She has created MY NEPENTHE: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family, and Big Sur (Andrews McMeel). Part memoir, part cookbook, this visually appealing book is loaded with vintage black and white photos and many color shots that evokes the special history of the California coast and the many events hosted by an extraordinary couple who created a popular destination restaurant that has endured for more than six decades.

“My Nepenthe goes deep into the areas history with author Romney Steele’s personal family stories and photos which bewitchingly capture the mid 1900s (reminding me quite a bit of Tessa Kiros’ lovely books). It’s a book to curl up on the couch and lose yourself in, taking walks on the beach looking for treasures with Aunt Dorcas or laughing at tales of Uncle Griff’s first job as a busboy, spilling wine on a patron and accidentally using her glove to wipe up the mess. In My Nepenthe, you have been invited to family dinner, only this family’s anecdotes also includes stories of Henry Miller’s ping pong skills and Richard Burton’s cigarette preferences as well as time-tested recipes.” ––Cook & Eat http://cookandeat.com/2009/12/03/big-sur-breakfast/

“My Nepenthe weaves together stories and tales about the famous California restaurant perched on the majestic cliffs of Big Sur. It celebrates the magic and history of place through food and the Fassett family who started Nepenthe. … Ultimately, My Nepenthe is a story about food, family, and the culture of place, and how it all unfolds around the table and why that matters.” ––Jessica’s Biscuit http://www.ecookbooks.com/p-24314-my-nepenthe.aspx

“My Nepenthe is a magical book.  In it are stories of Big Sur through the last half century, recipes that have satisfied movie stars, hippies, and bohemian artists, luscious photographs that both trace history and bring one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes alive. Author Romney Steele tells her own family and food-filled story of growing up in and around the Nepenthe Restaurant, a Big Sur landmark since 1947. Her writing is so evocative, and the photography so awe-inspiring that reading My Nepenthe makes one nostalgic for growing up in Big Sur, even if one grew up elsewhere. Being raised in a restaurant, especially one with the history of Nepenthe, is also a guarantee of delicious recipes from the family cookie jar as well as the dining tables of the restaurant.” ––In Mama’s Kitchen http://bit.ly/2KJM7s

“Romney Steele’s book tells the story of her family’s long history and involvement in Big Sur’s development from a small, rural coastal area to a burgeoning bohemian enclave and popular tourist destination.” ––Epicurious, naming My Nepenthe among the Best Cookbooks of 2009 bit.ly/163BnN

“[Romney] Steele crafted [My Nepenthe] — referrred to by Sunset magazine as “a valentine to one of the most beautiful places to eat in the world” — not so much as a cookbook but as a storybook, she says, with recipes. It tells the tales of a place that was not about food but became so, that was more about “the culture of place and how it all unfolds around the table and why that matters.” The book serves up recipes and Steele’s memories of them, wrapped in reasons for making them and ways to serve them and the contexts that made them memorable.” ––Montery Herald http://bit.ly/36b10H

““My Nepenthe” makes me want to get in my car and drive south. Until I can, the book is the next best thing. ” ––Press Democrat http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20091104/LIFESTYLE/911049956?tc=autorefresh

“I have just finished feasting, and am still savoring tasteful images and recipes from the most breathtakingly beautiful “cook book” I’ve ever read. Perhaps it is because it is so much more than food that is displayed here. Romney Steele has preserved the unique legacy of precious photos, of long forgotten places and faces, of people I have known and loved personally, all bound together in an elegant treasure chest she calls, “My Nepenthe“” ––Song of a Flower Child http://songofaflowerchild.blogspot.com/2009/10/memorial-to-kingdom-of-nepenthe-and-its.html

“Romney ‘Nani’ Steele wrote an amazing story about her family. A beautifully, written tapestry about her roots to Nepenthe and Big Sur, woven in are family recipes handed down from her grandmother, Lolly Fassett, herelf and other family memebers.” ––Christy and The Boys http://christyandtheboys.blogspot.com/2009/10/big-sur-big-event-and-big-thoughts.html

“Romney “Nani” Steele grew up scrambling through Big Sur’s brambles, beaches and creeks as a native granddaughter of Nepenthe founders Lolly and Bill Fassett, but fortunately for those who like good food, she also spent some serious time in the kitchen. Now the author-chef is sharing some 60-plus secrets she mastered along the way with My Nepenthe: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family and Big Sur, including the adored “ambrosia burger,” the Nepenthe cheese pie and some of the most tempting pancakes I’ve ever seen – along with an overflowing chest of anecdotal treasures. ––Montery County Weekly http://www.montereycountyweekly.com/archives/2009/2009-Oct-22/just-try-to-get-your-mouth-around-this-slab-of-epicurean-activity/1/@@index

In 2009 Nepenthe commemorates sixty years of bringing writers, artists, dancers, travelers, actors, and cooks together around the table. Today about 250,000 people visit Nepenthe every year.

A lyrical feast written by the owners’ granddaughter, Romney Steele, who grew up at the restaurant, My Nepenthe is as much about a family enterprise as it is about the Fassett family and their legacy. It recounts stories about the family’s more than sixty-year history on the coast, the arts and architecture, and the colorful people who were the genesis of this legendary restaurant.

My Nepenthe marks the restaurant’s vibrant past as a gathering place and noted bohemian haunt, and its foray into the film industry during the shooting of The Sandpiper, featuring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. It also explores the lively scene that played out into the ’70s, and onward through the current decade where it showcases Nepenthe’s unique relationship with Pisoni Vineyards, owned by the renowned winemaker family. My Nepenthe includes more than seventy-five special recipes from the Fassetts, the restaurant, and the café, along with spectacular photography that completes the tale.

Ultimately, My Nepenthe is a story about food, family, and the culture of place, and how it all unfolds around the table and why that matters.

Located on the Big Sur cliffs 808 feet above the Pacific Ocean, Nepenthe Restaurant boasts sweeping views of the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains and the wild south coast of Monterey County. Angular mountains plunge into the crashing surf below, and on a clear day there is no limit to the scenery, unspoiled and immense in nature. Opened in 1949 by the Fassett family, the restaurant is nestled among native oak trees and a historic log cabin (now faced by brick) that was once owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth.

About the Romney Steele

Romney Steele is a writer, cook, and food stylist, and the granddaughter of Bill and Lolly Fassett, creators of Nepenthe Restaurant. Nani, as she is known to family and friends, grew up at the family restaurant and opened Café Kevah, an outdoor café on the Nepenthe grounds, when she was twenty-six years old. She later served as a pastry chef at Sierra Mar Restaurant at neighboring Post Ranch Inn. Her writing has appeared in various print magazines, including Gourmet, and online at MSNBC. She currently lives in Oakland, California, with her two children.

The Fasset Family, 1966

Growing up at Nepenthe, I recall no singular moment of awe at seeing the view for the first time, no marvel at the experience in the same way as someone visiting. Instead, it was when guests arrived: the famous and not-so-famous, the movie stars, writers, travelers, old friends, and “rugged individualists,” as my grandmother called the many colorful people who passed through Nepenthe’s doors.

My family’s story in Big Sur began in 1947, when my grandparents William and Madeleine Fassett, better known as Bill and Lolly, bought a rustic log cabin on a grassy knoll surrounded by oak trees, and moved in with their five children: Griff, Kaffe, Dorcas, Holly, and Kim, my mother, who was just nine months old. The cabin, built in 1925 by homesteader Sam Trotter for the Trails Club, overlooks the south coast of Monterey County. Now faced by brick, for many years it was an overnight resting place for travelers and hikers, and a summer retreat for club members. With its unparalleled view, it was also a favorite picnic spot for day visitors, which was how my grandparents discovered it.

Bats and termites called the cabin home, and deer and rattlesnakes hovered. My grandmother refused to return until they were cleared out. Inside was a formidable wooden chest lined with tin for storing food and supplies. Right off, they added a covered porch so they could remove rain gear and heavy coats before entering the cabin. Soon after, my grandmother planted a grapevine, which continues to trail up the front arbor. She also made plans to add rooms on the western slope, enlisting her dear friend, the artist Douglas Madsen, to help. My grandfather, meanwhile, took jobs on the highway and in construction. The creation of Nepenthe Restaurant would follow, a poet’s paradise carved from the hillside and formed to be one with land and sea.

As a teenager, Uncle Kaffe brought ethnic folk dance to the mix. He attended the arts-oriented Happy Valley School in Ojai, where he was taught Ukrainian dance as part of the curriculum. In turn, he taught everyone back at home. When the music came on, waiters, dishwashers, bartenders, and cooks danced. “Everyone would drop what they were doing,” recalled my aunt Holly.

Cole Weston’s first wife, Helen, worked at Nepenthe as a waitress. She wore bright red underwear beneath her long black skirts that showed when she twirled. My grandmother bought her girls red underwear, too, and once a customer complained that kids on the terrace were showing off their underclothes, not realizing it was part of the act.

Henry Miller, who frequented Nepenthe as his favorite watering hole, applauded the Fassett children in Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch, his book about living in Big Sur: “As it is, they have a wonderful roller-skating rink in the dance floor, which adjoins the dining room and bar outdoors. Evenings, before the place gets too crowded, the whole gang of them entertains the guests doing folk dances. They have a repertoire which would do credit to a professional dancer. To watch Kim, the youngest, who is still only a bit of a tot, is a delight. She floats about as if she were in heaven. They need no supervision and they get none. When they’re weary they retire, to listen in quiet to a Beethoven quartet, Sibelius or an album of Shankar.”

This is my grandmother’s recipe and a long-standing house favorite for dinner. Each guest receives half a roasted chicken served on a bed of moist sage stuffing with cranberry sauce. On holidays, it is served throughout the day, and guests travel from far away just to have it. I have adapted this recipe to serve a family at home using one whole chicken, split in half.

Serves 4 t o 6

Stuffing
3 tablespoons butter
1½ large onions, chopped
4 ribs celery, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, or 2 teaspoons dried
4–5 cups croutons, preferably sourdough
¼–½ cup chicken broth (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Chicken
1 (4–5 pound) roasting chicken, split, backbone removed
2–3 tablespoons butter, softened
Paprika
Chopped fresh sage

Preheat the oven to 450°F. To make the stuffing, melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high. Add the onion, celery, and sage, and sauté until very soft. Add half the croutons, stir well, and then add the remaining croutons. Remove from the heat. Stir in the broth if needed, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Stir again to distribute the moisture evenly and cover again. When ready to use, transfer the stuffing to a baking dish or large cast-iron skillet that holds both chicken halves.

To make the chicken, rinse the chicken with cold water and pat it dry. Rub softened butter all over the chicken and under its skin. Season all over with salt and pepper. Place the chicken on top of the stuffing and sprinkle with the paprika and the sage. Roast for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Continue roasting for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is golden-brown and the juices run clear when the meatiest part of the thigh is pricked with a fork. Cover with foil if the chicken is browning too quickly. When ready, serve the chicken directly from the baking dish set on a hot plate at the center of the table, or transfer the chicken to a cutting board and cut into pieces, then place the chicken on a platter with the stuffing. If roasting a whole bird, allow it to rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.